Beyond the Buzz: A Balanced Look at Oils & Butters in Skincare
Trends in skincare come and go—but true nourishment is timeless.
Lately, there’s been a lot of noise online: seed oils are out, tallow is in. And while there’s nothing wrong with using tallow—it absolutely has traditional roots and unique benefits—it’s important to remember that plant-based oils and butters have been trusted across cultures for centuries.
In this post, I want to take a step back from the hype and explore the real benefits, uses, and history behind some of the most common oils and butters used in handcrafted skincare.
Let’s explore their origins, pros and cons, and what makes each one special.
Breaking Down Some Popular Oils & Butters
1. Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia chinensis)
Technically a wax ester, not a true oil, jojoba is one of the most skin-compatible ingredients you can use.
• Pros: Lightweight, balances oil production, won’t clog pores, shelf-stable
• Cons: Can feel too light for very dry skin on its own
• Best for: Facial oils, acne-prone skin, or oily skin types
History:
Jojoba is native to the Sonoran Desert in the southwestern U.S. and northern Mexico. Indigenous tribes like the O’odham and Seri used jojoba oil to treat sores, wounds, and sunburn. They also softened the seeds and applied them to the scalp and skin. Jojoba’s similarity to human sebum made it a prized remedy long before it was discovered by the cosmetic industry in the 20th century.
2. Olive Oil (Olea europaea)
Rich in antioxidants, vitamin E, and healthy fats, olive oil is a Mediterranean staple with thousands of years of use.
• Pros: Deeply moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, protects the skin barrier
• Cons: Can be too heavy or clogging for some skin types
• Best for: Dry, mature, or sun-exposed skin
History:
Used since at least 3,000 BCE, olive oil has been a cornerstone of Greek, Roman, and Egyptian beauty rituals. Cleopatra was said to bathe in it. It was also used as a base for salves, perfumes, and soaps, and even offered in sacred rituals. The phrase “anointed with oil” often referred to olive oil in biblical and historical texts.
3. Sunflower Oil (Helianthus annuus)
A gentle, golden oil with a high linoleic acid content, perfect for sensitive skin.
• Pros: Light, non-comedogenic, anti-inflammatory, rich in vitamin E
• Cons: Often misunderstood due to the modern “seed oil” debate
• Best for: Sensitive, inflamed, or reactive skin types
History:
Sunflowers are native to North America and were cultivated by Indigenous tribes like the Hopi, Mandan, and Dakota for food, medicine, and dye. Sunflower seeds were pressed for oil using traditional methods and applied to the skin for healing and protection. The Spanish brought sunflowers to Europe, where the oil became especially prominent in Russia and Ukraine by the 18th century—used widely during Orthodox fasting seasons when animal fats were avoided.
4. Shea Butter (Vitellaria paradoxa)
A rich, creamy butter with unmatched moisturizing power.
• Pros: Deeply emollient, anti-inflammatory, packed with vitamins A & E
• Cons: Thick texture; may clog pores for some skin types
• Best for: Cracked, dry, or mature skin; barrier repair
History:
Shea butter comes from the nuts of the shea tree, native to West Africa. It has been used for over 2,000 years in traditional medicine, skin and hair care, and baby care. Women often refer to it as “women’s gold,” not only because of its rich, golden hue but also for the income it provides rural African communities through harvesting and processing.
5. Mango Butter (Mangifera indica)
A lightweight butter with a soft, silky texture and a high antioxidant profile.
• Pros: Non-greasy, easily absorbed, protective and soothing
• Cons: Less rich than shea; may need to be paired with oils
• Best for: Sensitive, irritated skin or summer skincare
History:
Mango trees are native to South Asia and have been cultivated for over 4,000 years. In Ayurvedic medicine, mango seed butter was used for skin rashes, healing wounds, and soothing dry patches. Though not as well-known as shea, mango butter has grown in popularity as a lightweight, non-clogging option for those with sensitive skin.
6. Tallow (Rendered Beef Fat)
Tallow is high in saturated fats and shares a similar structure to the lipids in our own skin.
• Pros: Deeply nourishing, excellent for compromised or very dry skin, long shelf life
• Cons: Animal-derived; not suitable for vegan lifestyles
• Best for: Barrier repair, extremely dry or inflamed skin
History:
Used for millennia in Europe, North America, and Indigenous cultures, tallow was the go-to base for balms, soaps, and healing ointments before modern oils became widely available. Early American pioneers used tallow in everything from cooking to candles to skin salves. It has made a strong comeback recently due to its simplicity and bio-compatibility with human skin.
7. Apricot Kernel Oil (Prunus armeniaca)
A light, silky oil that absorbs quickly and feels gentle on the skin.
• Pros: Lightweight, nourishing, rich in vitamins A & E, good for sensitive or mature skin
• Cons: Less stable than jojoba; can oxidize over time
• Best for: Facial oils, baby care, mature or irritated skin
History:
Apricot kernel oil has long been used in Traditional Chinese Medicine and Ayurvedic healing, particularly for inflammatory skin conditions. In Central Asia and the Middle East, apricots were prized for both their fruit and oil, and the kernels were often pressed into oils for skin and hair care. Its gentle, non-greasy nature made it a favorite for delicate or aging skin, and it’s still widely used in natural baby products today.
8. Sweet Almond Oil (Prunus amygdalus dulcis)
A soothing, versatile oil that works beautifully for massage, moisturizers, and infusions.
• Pros: Rich in oleic acid, vitamin E, and skin-softening properties; mild and well tolerated
• Cons: Can be comedogenic for acne-prone skin types
• Best for: Body oils, massage blends, herbal infusions, dry or irritated skin
History:
Sweet almond oil has been used since Ancient Egyptian times, prized for its emollient and skin-softening abilities. It became a staple in Greco-Roman and Persian skincare, often used in perfumes, ointments, and salves. Almond trees were cultivated throughout the Mediterranean, and the oil was even used to cleanse and condition the skin in early beauty rituals.
So… Which One Is Best?
There’s no one-size-fits-all answer. The best oil or butter for your skin depends on your skin type, season, formulation, and even your heritage or values. Each ingredient has its own strengths, and knowing when to use them can help you craft (or choose) skincare that truly supports your skin.
• For sensitive or inflamed skin: Sunflower oil, apricot kernel oil, or mango butter
• For cracked, dry, or compromised skin: Shea butter, tallow, or olive oil
• For facial care: Jojoba oil, apricot kernel oil, or mango butter
• For baby or delicate skin: Apricot kernel oil or sweet almond oil
• For barrier repair: Tallow, sunflower oil, or shea butter
• For lightweight hydration: Jojoba oil, mango butter, or apricot kernel oil
• For massage or body oils: Sweet almond oil or olive oil
• For ancestral or traditional formulations: Choose what resonates with your roots—olive, sunflower, tallow, almond, and shea all carry deep heritage
In Conclusion: It’s Not About Trends—It’s About Intention
Trends like “anti-seed oil” or the rise of tallow can create the illusion that skincare must be black and white. But the reality is, many oils and butters have been cherished in global skincare for centuries—and they each offer something unique.
At Wild Faith Acres, we believe in intentional formulation, seasonal rhythms, and respecting both tradition and innovation. Whether we’re infusing sunflower oil with violets or blending jojoba into a facial oil, we choose ingredients based on what works—not what’s trending.